Q: Do i need to use silicone?
A: No, the steel gutter unions are supplied with an dry joint EDPM rubber seal.
Q: Will PPC Black steel gutter suit my property?
A: Well that depends on your type of property. PPC Black steel gutter is most widely suited to new builds faced with brick or timber, however it also looks very attractive on stone and industrial style buildings. It wouldn’t really suit Victorian/Georgian town houses, country cottages or listed buildings.
Q: What does PPC Mean?
A: Polyester Powder Coating is a process. After spray or dip based chemical pre-treatment, aluminium or steel parts are electrostatically sprayed with a coloured powder and oven cured.
Q: Is galvanised steel gutter the cheapest solution?
A: Yes, other than standard PVC gutter. We carried out a price comparison using the prices shown on our website to replace the gutter and downpipes on the front of a 3 bedroom property with a small extension.
• 112mm Half round PVC £83.71
• 115mm Galvanised steel £288.11
• 115mm PPC Black steel £318.00
• 112mm Cast iron style PVC £366.43
• 115mm Cast aluminium PPC £788.00
• 115mm Cast iron painted £972.72
All the above prices shown include VAT @ 20%
Q: Who manufactures your steel gutter?
A: We stock Zambelli’s range of steel rainwater. Zambelli is Germany’s largest and in our opinion best manufacture of steel rainwater products.
Q: How long do steel gutters last?
A: The life expectancy of galvanised & PPC steel gutter is 25 years plus, depending on geographical location. For example we would expect costal installations to be more expectable to corrosion.
Q: Does steel gutter have a warranty?
A: Yes, Zambelli offer a 15 year manufactures warranty on the entire range of galvanised & PPC steel rainwater products.
Q: How to cut steel gutters?
A: Firstly mark the area you wish to cut, then with a hacksaw make the initial cut. You now have a choice, you can continue using the hacksaw or opt to use tin snips.
Q: Can I paint galvanised steel gutter?
A: You can, but it is not an easy process, the oily finish needs to be cleaned with a specialist cleaning solution before applying the primer and top coats. If you want a coloured rainwater system, we suggest you consider purchasing powder coated steel.
Q: Can I solder or weld galvanised steel gutter?
A: No, you cannot weld or solder galvanised & PPC steel as it will produce toxic fumes. Also, the wall of the gutter is to thin and you will ultimately end up damaging the system.
Q: How to repair galvanised steel gutter?
A: You can’t really repair the gutter, only replace the damage section with new. Luckily steel gutter is not expensive and has a wide range of easy to install fittings.
Q: How to install galvanised & PPC steel gutter?
A: Please see full installation guidelines with in the tab titled installation on the product pages.
1. Generally position the fascia brackets at 915mm centres, using at least 3 brackets per gutter length. Use 2 screws on both the left and right fixing options and 1/no underneath the gutter securing tab
2. Use a string line to set out your fascia brackets along the gutter run allowing for a fall of 1:600 to 1:350 (max).
3. A bead connector is used to join two lengths of gutter. Insert the connector into the front roll of each gutter length. Allow for a 4mm expansion gap.
4. An EDPM rubber sealed union connector is used to connect the gutter lengths and angles together. Locate the union connector over the rear edge of the gutter.
5. Locate the clasp over the front roll edge of the gutter. Push down on top of the clasp and squeeze the clasp shut. Fold the locking tab over to fully secure.
6. Locate the gutter into the fascia bracket and seat level, then fold the front tab of the fascia bracket around the front roll and into the gutter. Fold the rear tab of the fascia bracket down and over the rear edge of the gutter.
1. When installing a ‘wrap around outlet’ mark the desired location of the outlet by drawing a line either side of the outlet along its edge. Draw a further line 20mm inside of the outer lines and join these inner lines together in an oval pattern. This becomes the marking for the cut out hole.
2. Use a hacksaw to make an initial hole in the gutter, and then use a set of tin snips to cut out the inner hole that you have marked out.
3. Attach the outlet to the gutter and fold the rear tabs of the outlet over the rear edge of the gutter, making sure the outlet is aligned correctly to accept the downpipe.
4. Tap the inner rough edges of the hole that was cut in the gutter, down into the outlet, to ensure a smooth flow of water.
5. Offsets are achieved using 2/no 70º bends, with larger offsets being made by inserting a pipe length between the two bends.
6. Downpipes should be installed using at least 2/no pipe clips per length. Mark out the clips locations and level with a sprit level or plumb line. Open the tightening screw to allow the pipe to be inserted, close the clip and re-tighten, making sure not to over tighten and damage the downpipe.
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